Drifting away to Tarimbang’s paradise
Agustina Wayansari, Contributor, Waingapu, East Nusa Tenggara | Sun, 05/16/2010 10:12 AM | Travel
I am not a surfer. I can’t even swim. Therefore, joining a surfing trip to Sumba, the backwater island of East Nusa Tenggara may seem a bad decision.
Skinny dip-inducing panorama of Tarimbang beach
But I had not been to the island and was in the mood for adventure. In early April some Australian friends invited me to join a trip to Tarimbang, in the eastern part of Sumba Island . I could not help but say yes.
I barely had any knowledge of the island, so readied myself by googling for available information about Sumba , particularly Tarimbang, a surfing point on the east coast of the island.
Like uncharted territory ready to be explored, Sumba has all the right features to lure even the most fanatic surfers from the world. And seen for most of my beach and surfer friends, who have moved from Australia to live in Bali , the trip to Tarimbang is a trip with waves to remember.
Tarimbang is but one of a few surfing spots in Sumba . It may be less famous than Nihiwatu Beach , famously featured in The Drifter, a movie about surfing featuring world-renowned professional surfer Rob Machado, but it would certainly impress fanatic surfers who look for hidden waves.
Besides, Nihiwatu has lost its charm as it has become unaffordable for most budget surfers since it turned into a tourist resort, thanks to The Drifter.
Located in the less disadvantaged part of Sumba Island , the unspoiled Tarimbang Beach is said to always impress surfers.
“My friend went there last year and had the best time catching waves. I have seen some pictures she has taken. It’s beautiful, I want to go there,” said one of my surfer friends, who organized the trip.
He added that the remoteness of the area is a big draw-card among many avid surfers who seek new waves. The trip also proves that Tarimbang offers a consistent swell and is hard to disappoint. Even its worst waves can still be surfed.
Everyone had a wonderful time in the water, despite the long paddles out from shore — as many as 500 were needed to reach the best surfing spots, a friend said.
With only an hour’s flight from Bali plus a three-hour drive through a bumpy and pothole-ridden road, Tarimbang was pretty impressive and served as a perfect getaway from the overcrowded Bali beaches.
A group of three Portuguese surfers who came a few days later to shoot a documentary about Indonesia ’s surfing spots for a website and television show shared their enthusiasm about Sumba ’s swells and its exotic culture.
But even for a non-surfer like me, Tarimbang Bay has something to offer. The pristine white sandy beach surrounded by lush green forest is perfect for a morning walk and sweat-inducing jog. A yoga session before the clean blue water makes you content and relaxed.
Until today, only a small number of surfers know about Tarimbang beach which in a way helps the spot remain pristine.
A bonfire at the beach, sipping cold beverages at sundown was worth the arduous trip to the spot. With only seven of us and the ocean, it was very peaceful. The beach felt like we were on a private island where you could skinny dip in the ocean on a tranquil night.
Even the trip to the spot was an exciting adventure. It set the tone for what we would encounter there.
We left the airport in Waingapu at around 3 p.m., after we packed some drinks and snacks. The view was breathtaking with prairies reminding me of the drive through a country town, only that the cattle was replaced by rows of coconut trees. We stopped a few times to take pictures of the beautiful landscape.
However, the absence of any semblance of progress on the island can make a week- long stay seem an eternity. Call me a city girl, I don’t mind, too many times I miss my Internet connection.
I enjoyed beach walks, watching the sunset and having fun with my friends, well as talking to the locals who passionately told us their dowry tradition to present at least 50 quadrupeds (cows, horses, buffalos) to the bride’s family, complicating the already difficult affair of getting married.
I won’t easily forget the wonderful experience hanging out with the school kids we made friends with. We took pride in that our in situ English lesson enabled them to speak beyond, “Hello mister” and “Apa kabar miss”.
If I was given the option between seeing progress in Tarimbang or leaving the place as it is now, I will certainly opt for the latter. I don’t want the masses to take over this small piece of paradise in the province. Yet, as much as I enjoyed my adventure here, I believe visitors would love better accommodation options and more places or attractions to enjoy.
Our accommodation, Marthen’s Homestay, (also the only available commercial accommodation in the area) is nice and Marthen and the crew are hospitable and helpful. But I would say that a more hygienic bathroom and toilet would do no harm to my spirit for adventure.
The government of West Sumba is increasing tourism in the area by developing cultural events such as Pasola (the war ritual festival) and other tourist attractions to attract more visitors. I believe that more choices, other than surfing, would invite more visitors to East Sumba , especially those who are not surfers who want to have a better experience than holing up in their room all day long.
Your own private beach on Sumba Island
— Photos by Agustina Wayansari
