The fabled island of Sulawesi is shaped like a tropical orchid; each "petal" a peninsula, ridged with lofty mountains and surrounded by coral reefs.Sulawesi is a delightful potpourri of people and cultures ranging from the mysterious Toraja, who live in the mountainous centre of the Sulawesi "orchid", to the friendly folk of the lush northern region of Manado-Minahasa. The intriguing Bugis and Makassarese people from peninsular South Sulawesi are the stuff of legend. (The "bogey" man of our childhood fears is rumoured to have started his career as a Bugis pirate!)

Manado-Minahasa for a completely different experience

In total contrast to Torajaland, the area around the capital, Manado, in North Sulawesi has come under strong European influence since the 17th century. Here, a lush, tropical landscape with miles of coconut trees; the air filled with the spicy tang of cloves, the area's main crop which eventually finds its way into Indonesia's famous clove cigarettes, kretek.Apart from the friendliness of the locals, Manado is famous with divers and snorkellers the world over for the incredible clarity and underwater attractions of Bunaken Sea Gardens, an hour's boat ride away.There are plenty of other attractions including the quaint mountain town of Tomohon with its colourful market, Lake Tondano and the scenic Kali waterfall.

Torajaland, a unique culture

New roads mean these remote highland people are now more used to seeing visitors arrive at the doorstep of their fascinating houses. It's a long, eight hour journey from South Sulawesi's capital, Ujung Pandang, but well worth it to discover such striking scenery, architecture, and unique culture. The Torajans pattern their vast dwellings on the shape of their forefathers' grand sailing vessels, with enormous sweeping roofs, carving and paint these high stilted houses with meticulous care.Their funeral rites are also fascinating, for they bury their relatives high on cliff faces in the company of wooden effigies in clothing similar to that of the deceased. Should the latter wish to return to the world they've left behind, the Torajans believe he or she will have the use of eyes and a well-dressed body.

Southern bustle or southern calm

South Sulawesi's busy port and capital, Ujung Pandang, still exhibits many vestiges of the 16th century when it was known as Makassar. Today, the handsome wooden Bugis schooners still jockey for space in the harbour; the ancient walls of the city, its minarets and mosques compound its medieval appeal.

Highlights

• Visiting the ancient fort of Benteng Ujung Pandang built in 1545.

  Mr Bundt's incredible orchid collection at No. 15 Jalan Mochtar Lutfi, Ujung Pandang.

  Watching the sun set over the Makassar Strait from the promenade at Jalan Penghibur.

  Sighting the most beautiful butterflies in the world at Bantimurung Waterfall (41 kms from Ujung Pandang).

• Relaxing on Pulau Han, one of the most scenic and pristine beaches in Indonesia.

Transport & Accommodation

Flights

• Direct from Singapore to Manado and Ujung Pandang.

  Small aircraft from Uiung Pandang to Toraja.

• Domestic flights from major cities to Manado and Ujung Pandang.

Land

• Regular intercity mini buses in North Sulawesi.

Accommodation

• International standard hotels - up to four star in Ujung Padang and Manado and three star in Tana Toraja.