Early man arrived in Sumatra more than a million years ago. And you can be sure of a warm welcome when you follow his lead. The fifth largest island in the world, Sumatra, like Indonesia as a whole, has an incredibly diverse range of peoples and cultures. Importantly, good roads now connect most areas making travelling around this huge island easier than ever before.Vibrant bustling cities are cheek by jowl with vast impenetrable jungles; advanced technology exists side by side with primitive lifestyles. The result is a country which even the most jaded traveller finds totally captivating.Sumatra's natural resources are vast and, despite its long history of habitation, it's a land where tigers, elephants and rhinos still roam, and where your wake-up call is the "Song of Siamang", the morning call of the largest Gibbon of them all.In Sumatra you'll also be following in the footsteps of Marco Polo, who stopped over in Aceh at the north western end of Sumatra during his journey from China to Persia.

Aceh, Mecca's 'front veranda'

The name given to Banda Aceh reflects the Islamic culture and religion that were brought here in the 13th century. Islam's predominance in Aceh is reflected in the number of mosques, the Grand Mosque Baiturrahman being the most impressive.Aceh has other interesting landmarks including the Governor's Residence, the old Indra Patra Fortress, and the artificial mountain called Gunongan which was constructed around the 16th century by Sultan Iskandarmuda in memory of his beloved wife. Then, when you finally run out of film you can relax on one of the many beautiful and uncrowded Banda Aceh beaches, or stop by a traditional restaurant at Ujung Batee and sample some of the excellent Acehnese cuisine, including giant crabs and succulent shrimp.

Ready for a real adventure?

Try a raft safari down the dramatic Alas River in the heavily forested Karo Highlands, or a trek into the Gunung Leuser National Park for a closer look at the amazing wildlife. These are special adventures, bound to astound even the most experienced traveller.South of Banda Aceh lies the bustling city of Medan. From here you can travel to one of the greatest natural treasures in the archipelago - Lake Toba, a vast crater lake of glistening green water suspended in the Batak Highlands with the photogenic Samosir Island (all 329 square miles of it) as its centrepiece. It's a sublime spot to swim, water ski, canoe or sail.Samosir has many hotels, bungalows and rest houses and the main villages of interest are Tomok, Tuk-Tuk, Siallagan and Ambarita. This is the land of the Tapanuli people (called Batak by outsiders) who still live in traditional multi-family dwellings. The Bataks are superb craftsmen and have beautiful singing voices. Watch for women weaving the renownedulos cloth.

Creatures great and small

With many of the world's rarest animals under threat (including the magnificent Sumatran tiger), the Bahorok Reserve about 60 miles north from Medan is an encouraging enclave, for here the comparatively gentle orang-utans are being trained to return to their native habitat. It's a sight well worth seeing.

The exotic and lovely Riau Islands

As a holiday destination the islands of Batam or Bintan are a perfect choice. Of the 1304 idyllic islands which make up the Riau Archipelago, Batam and Bintan embody all the attractions you'd expect of a tropical island including dazzling white sandy beaches, calm waters and swaying palms.Batam, just 45 minutes by ferry from Singapore, has something for everyone, from luxurious hotels to stunning beach resorts. Swimming. boating, water-skiing. parasailing and snorkelling are just some of the attractions. You can also enjoy a game of golf.Bintan's ancient port once welcomed Marco Polo. Today the island is fast becoming one of Indonesia's most exciting tourist destinations, offering holidaymakers miles of white sandy beaches close to bustling Singapore. Take a sampan ride around the waterways, or explore some of the many nearby islands. There are beautiful beaches with azure water and white, white sand, and lush jungles rich with plant and birdlife.For a real Bintan experience, see the sights in a vintage taxi. Or treat yourself to a magnificent seafood meal for which both Batam and Bintan are famous

An unusual rite of passage

Off the coast of North Sumatra you'll find the island of Nias, whose inhabitants were once enthusiastic head hunters. This custom has happily disappeared but one that remains is stonejumping which requires the young men of Nias to hurl themselves over a stone monument more than two metres high. Formally a method of entering enemy villages at night, this feat known as "Fahombe" is now performed as a test of prowess. It will certainly have you on your feet.Nias has also become a mecca for surfing enthusiasts from all over the world, for the island's beaches and crystal waves are considered to be among the world's best. A tropical paradise on every count, Nias will captivate you, not only with its glorious beaches, but with its colourful flora, fauna and fascinating community culture.

Travel to the land of the friendly Minangkabaus

Sumatra's rich tapestry of peoples and cultures include the largest matriarchal society on earth, the Minangkabaus of western Sumatra, who also happen to be intensely Muslim. The Minangkabaus are skilled farmers and craftsmen and you'll be captivated by their architecture, fine silver filigree work and exquisite embroidery. An added bonus is the beautiful scenery of the Minangkabau Highlands and the charming town of Bukittinggi. A drive around 44 hairpin bends will reward you with the shimmering vision of Lake Maninjau. It's just the sight to work up an appetite for the renowned spicy cuisine of Padang.

South Sumatra, for those "in the know"

The southern provinces, which include the two islands of Bangka and Belitung, are still relatively unknown and consequently a great escape for tourists escaping other tourists!Bangka's splendid snow white beaches, cool mountain resorts, natural hot springs and pepper plantations are well worth a visit, while the inland city of Palembang, with its reputation as a great international bazaar and spiritual centre, certainly merits a stopover.In Palembang, once the capital of the great Sriwijaya Kingdom, the principal points of interest are the "floating" houses and shops of the Musi River, the Sungai Gerong shell handicraft centre, and the Kuto Basak and Cinde markets.

Hop aboard an elephant

The southern Sumatran province of Lampung has many intriguing attractions. A highlight is the Way Kambas Elephant Training Centre, an international project partly funded by the World Wildlife Fund. Here you can see elephants being trained for many useful services and you'll also have the privilege of riding an elephant, or taking part in an elephant safari. Believe it or not, that's just starters for Sumatra.

Highlights

• Visiting the Baiturrahman Grand Mosque in Banda Aceh. Visiting the Island resorts of Bintan and Batam. Spotting wildlife in Indonesia's wildest park, the Leuser National Park. Stopping by the stunning Sipiso-Piso waterfall in its photogenic setting. Taking in the ravishing beauty of Lake Toba and listening to the traditional ballads of the Batak people.
• Journeying down the Alas River on a Sobek raft.

Transport & Accommodation

Flights

• Direct from Europe to Medan and from Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Penang to Medan, Pekanbaru, Padang and Banda Aceh.
• Domestic flights from major cities.

Sea

• Ferries from Singapore to Batam and Bintan, and from Java to Lampung. Inter-island ships from Jakarta to Padang, Medan, Tanjung Pinang and Banda Aceh.
• Cruises from Singapore.

Accommodation

• Four star hotels in cities and resorts, to simple quest houses